生田綾「バーバリーの服に「首吊り縄が自殺を連想させる」 モデルが問題提起し、同社が謝罪」https://www.huffingtonpost.jp/entry/burberry-2019-aw_jp_5c6e0015e4b0e37a1ed4aaff
Chloe Taylor “Fashion label Burberry apologizes for 'suicide' hoodie” https://www.msn.com/en-us/news/other/fashion-label-burberry-apologizes-for-suicide-hoodie/ar-BBTQNHS
Associated Press “Burberry Apologizes After Controversy Erupts over Noose Hoodies: ‘Suicide is Not Fashion’” https://www.breitbart.com/entertainment/2019/02/20/burberry-apologizes-after-controversy-erupts-over-noose-hoodies-suicide-is-not-fashion/
Nerisha Penrose “Burberry Apologizes for Debuting a Hoodie With a Noose Around the Neck” https://www.elle.com/fashion/a26412133/burberry-noose-hoodie/
問題の発端となったモデルのリズ・ケネディさんの投稿はかなりの長文*1。新聞記事になると、どうしても一部がクロース・アップされた仕方で伝えられてしまうので、先ずは全文を読んでみる必要はあるだろう。
問題は、最初にバーバリーの関係者が真面目に対処しなかったことにある。また、反響が大きくなったら、バーバリー側が事の是非はともかくとして取り敢えず謝っておこうという、或る意味で〈日本的〉な解決を図ったということだろう。
@burberry @riccardotisci17 Suicide is not fashion. It is not glamorous nor edgy and since this show is dedicated to the youth expressing their voice, here I go. Riccardo Tisci and everyone at Burberry it is beyond me how you could let a look resembling a noose hanging from a neck out on the runway. How could anyone overlook this and think it would be okay to do this especially in a line dedicated to young girls and youth. The impressionable youth. Not to mention the rising suicide rates world wide. Let’s not forget about the horrifying history of lynching either. There are hundreds of ways to tie a rope and they chose to tie it like a noose completely ignoring the fact that it was hanging around a neck. A massive brand like Burberry who is typically considered commercial and classy should not have overlooked such an obvious resemblance. I left my fitting extremely triggered after seeing this look (even though I did not wear it myself). Feeling as though I was right back where I was when I was going through an experience with suicide in my family. Also to add in they briefly hung one from the ceiling (trying to figure out the knot) and were laughing about it in the dressing room. I had asked to speak to someone about it but the only thing I was told to do was to write a letter. I had a brief conversation with someone but all that it entailed was “it’s fashion. Nobody cares about what’s going on in your personal life so just keep it to yourself” well I’m sorry but this is an issue bigger than myself. The issue is not about me being upset, there is a bigger picture here of what fashion turns a blind eye to or does to gain publicity. A look so ignorantly put together and a situation so poorly handled. I am ashamed to have been apart of the show. #burberry. I did not post this to disrespect the designer or the brand but to simply express an issue I feel very passionate about.
A post shared by 🦎 (@liz.kennedy_) on Feb 17, 2019 at 9:51am PST
バーバリー側によれば、コレクションのテーマは「海」で、問題となった紐は船のロープをイメージしたものだろう。それが「輪縄(noose)」に見えてしまった。因みに、彼女は家族の自殺を経験したことがある(”Feeling as though I was right back where I was when I was going through an experience with suicide in my family.”)。そして、「輪縄(noose)」に見えると言われればそう見えてしまう。また、彼女は「リンチ」にも言及している。「奇妙な果実(strange kind of fruit)」*2。国家暴力装置を連想する人もいるかも知れない。 勿論、「自殺」も「リンチ」も死刑も連想しなかったよという人もいるのだろう。そういう人たちの話も読んでみたい。
ところで、バーバリーといえばトレンチ・コート、トレンチ・コートといえばバーバリー*3。trenchというのは「塹壕」という意味であり、トレンチ・コートそのものが戦争を連想させ*4自分のトラウマにひりひり触れるというクレームがあったら、どう対応するのだろうか。
*1:https://www.instagram.com/p/Bt_e9OpgGG3/
*2:See also https://sumita-m.hatenadiary.com/entry/20070608/1181274931
*3:See 宮田理江「「バーバリー」がトレンチコートの絶対王者である理由」https://allabout.co.jp/gm/gc/458071/all/
*4:日本人にとって、トレンチ・コートから先ず連想するのは、戦争ではなくて演歌かも知れない。ステレオタイプ的に言えば、演歌の女はトレンチ・コートを着て(大抵は北の地方へ)旅に出る。