紐育生まれだった - Living, Loving, Thinking, Again

Karen Kay “Happy 100th birthday, Vogue” http://www.theguardian.com/fashion/2016/feb/07/vogue-happy-100th-birthday-magazine-exhibition
Sarah Crompton “British Vogue at 100: how a magazine pictured a nation in style” http://www.theguardian.com/artanddesign/2016/jan/29/picturing-a-nation-british-vogue-100

英国版のVogueが1916年に創刊されてから今年の９月でちょうど100年になる。それを記念して、倫敦のナショナル・ポートレイト・ギャラリーでは回顧展Vogue 100: A Century of Styleが開かれている*1。
上の記事から興味を持ったのは２代目の編集長だったDorothy Toddという人。但し、上掲の記事、特にKaren Kayのものには、ちょっとした混乱があるようなのだ。
Vogueは1912年から英国に輸入されていた。しかし、売上げが順調に伸びており、第一次大戦のために米国で紙が不足し、「必需品」ではない雑誌の輸出入に制限が加わるようになったので、『ヴォーグ』オーナーのCondé Montrose Nastは英国版『ヴォーグ』の創刊を構想するようになった。
Karen Kay 曰く、

But it took time to find its fashion feet. Initially featuring editorial pages created in New York, the British edition included homegrown advertisements and a promise that “each issue will be supplemented with carefully selected articles dealing with English society, fashions, furniture, interior decorating, the garden, art, literature and the stage”.
Nicknamed “Brogue” by its employees, British Vogue’s first issue was edited by the avant garde, highly intellectual Dorothy Todd, featuring essays by her friends in the Bloomsbury group alongside a scattering of fashion illustrations and society portraits.
Briefly usurped by the exotically named Elspeth Champcommunal, Todd was reinstated in 1922, with a staff of 14 and a defiant determination to continue pushing a literary bent – Noël Coward, Vita Sackville-West and Evelyn Waugh all got their first Vogue bylines under her editorship, while Virginia Woolf became a regular contributor. Her style did not go down well with her proprietor.

Sarah Crompton曰く、

Those early years also saw another quality of British Vogue established. Its first editor, Dorothy Todd, only lasted a few months before she was sent to New York, to learn magazine publishing the Condé Nast way. On her return to the editorship in 1922, it wasn’t entirely clear she had learned the lesson. “She attempted,” says Muir*2 in his catalogue essay “to turn Vogue from a fashion magazine with light coverage of the arts into a magazine of the arts that hesitantly included fashion.”
The Bloomsbury set flocked to “sweep guineas off the Vogue counter”, as Virginia Woolf put it in her diary in 1925. The novelist herself wrote no fewer than five essays for the magazine, and although Todd’s defiant literary pursuits were a commercial disaster (and led to her sacking), they set the template for something Vogue has continued to be – a magazine for smart women in every sense, for thinkers as well as fashion lovers. Down the years it has happily accommodated writers from Rebecca West to Jeanette Winterson, from Nancy Mitford to Antonia Fraser and Marina Warner. It has straddled the broad cultural landscape with considerable ease, perhaps because so few of the editors have been fashion specialists.

Karen KayもSarah Cromptonも、Dorothy Toddが英国版『ヴォーグ』創刊号の編集長だったと認識している。それに対して、Wikipediaの”Vogue (British magazine)”の項は、

During the First World War, Condé Nast, Vogue’s publisher, had to deal with restrictions on overseas shipping as well as paper shortages in America. The British edition of Vogue was the answer to this problem, providing Vogue fashion coverage in the British Isles when it was not practicable to receive it in the usual way. Under the London edition's first editor, Elspeth Champcommunal,the magazine was essentially the same as the American edition, except for its British English spellings. However, Champcommunal thought it important that Vogue be more than a fashion magazine. It featured articles on ‘society and sporting news… Health and beauty advice… travelogues… and editorials’, making it a 'skillfully mixed cocktail'. Champcommunal held her editorial position until 1922.
Under its second editor, Dorothy Todd, a renowned Vogue editor due to her boldness, especially in her movement to blend the arts and fashion, the magazine shifted its focus from fashion to literature, featuring articles from Clive Bell about art exhibitions in Paris. There were also notable features from noted English writers such as Virginia Woolf and Aldous Huxley. Due to Todd's changes, the magazine lost much of its audience, and she spent only two years as editor.British Vogue is not believed to have really taken off until after its third editor, Alison Settle, was appointed in 1926.

と書かれている*3。
また、 Elspeth Champcommunalもヴァージニア・ウルフ *4の友人であり、ブルームズベリー・グループの周囲にいた人である。Wikipediaに曰く、

Champcommunal became the first editor of the Vogue London edition, which was launched in September 1916. Produced in Europe to bypass shipping restrictions and paper shortages, the British version was largely a reproduction of the American edition initially, but Champcommunal thought it important that Vogue be more than a fashion magazine and it later included articles on health and beauty, society and sport, as well as travel and opinion pieces.Champcommunal remained with the magazine until the end of 1922.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Elspeth_Champcommunal

Dorothy Toddが創刊号の編集長だったかどうかという疑問はペンディングしておく。彼女の時代に、たんなるファッション雑誌ではなく、ファッションを主要な一部として含む文化の雑誌としての『ヴォーグ』という在り方が確立したことになる。現在ではそれは『ヴォーグ』のみならず他のモード系雑誌でも、或いは広く〈サブカル系〉の雑誌でも共有されているといえるだろう。
さて、Dorothy Toddのもう一つの功績は写真家のセシル・ビートン *5を世に出したことだった。Karen Kay 曰く、

To her lasting credit, in 1924 Todd was responsible for publishing a photograph sent in, on spec, by a well-connected 20-year-old Cambridge undergraduate named Cecil Beaton, who went on to become one of the magazine’s most revered and prolific contributors – as a photographer, illustrator, cartoonist, writer, stylist, art director and social commentator.

ところで、vogueという言葉は元々仏蘭西語で、英語にとっては外来語である。そのせいもあって、VogueというのはElleやMarie Claireと同様に仏蘭西生まれの雑誌だと長い間思い込んでいて、ちゃきちゃきのニューヨーカーだということを忘れていたということがあった。なお、『ヴォーグ』の亜細亜進出は1990年代に入ってからであり、シンガポール版の創刊が1994年、韓国と台湾が1996年、日本が1999年*6。

Dorothy Toddと『ヴォーグ』に関して、Sandha Kimberley Lachmansingh "'Fashions of the Mind': Modernism and British Vogue Under the Editorship of Dorothy Todd"(2010)というバーミンガム大学の修士論文 *7を見つけたのだが、まだ読んでいない。

*1:http://www.npg.org.uk/whatson/vogue/exhibition.php

*2:Robin Muir。写真史家。Vogue 100: A Century of Styleのキューレイター。

*3:https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Vogue_%28British_magazine%29

*5:See eg. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cecil_Beaton https://ja.wikipedia.org/wiki/%E3%82%BB%E3%82%B7%E3%83%AB%E3%83%BB%E3%83%93%E3%83%BC%E3%83%88%E3%83%B3 Lucy Davies “How Cecil Beaton captured the world” http://www.telegraph.co.uk/culture/photography/8128794/How-Cecil-Beaton-captured-the-world.html Miranda Prynne “Cecil Beaton's brutally honest opinions of the stars he photographed revealed” http://www.telegraph.co.uk/culture/books/11039614/Cecil-Beatons-brutally-honest-opinions-of-the-stars-he-photographed-revealed.html The New Yorker “Cecil Beaton’s Decades of Portraiture” http://www.newyorker.com/culture/photo-booth/cecil-beaton-through-the-decades http://www.vogue.com/tag/photographer/cecil-beaton/

*6:https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Vogue_%28magazine%29

*7:http://etheses.bham.ac.uk/1578/1/Lachmansingh11MPhil.pdf