パンクは髪の毛

The Pirate's Dilemma: How Youth Culture Is Reinventing Capitalism

The Pirate's Dilemma: How Youth Culture Is Reinventing Capitalism

そもそもパンクは髪型だったという話。
Matt Mason Pirate’s Dilemma*1から。
髪型としてのパンクの創始者はRichard Meyers aka Richard Hell(p.9ff.)。元ネオン・ボーイズ、ヴォイドイズ、テレヴィジョンのリード・ヴォーカルにして、作家/詩人/アーティスト。
Richard MeyersはMatt Masonにロックにおける外見の重要性について語る;


“Part of what I liked about music was all these other means for communication,” Hell told me. “In rock’n’roll it’s always been important how you looked. How you looked said something. And it was usually something about rejecting convention and the nine-to-five, and any kind of control, but you could get really elaborate with how you used the way you looked to communicate stuff. You’re always being interviewed, your album cover, your live shows, it was so broad, the areas for getting your message across. I wanted to use all them.” (p.10)
そして、髪型としてのパンクの起源について;

(…) Inspired in part by the rebellious French poets Rimbaud and Artaud, who had sported spiky hair in the early nineteenth century, Hell chopped his name into a short, aggressive style as a way of rejecting the hippie movement and the big-hair glamour of stadium rock. He looked at the Beatles’ bowl haircuts and asked himself, what are they really saying? “Well,” he explains, “they really say five-years-old kid. So I thought, ‘What was my generation’s haircut like when we were five years old?’ Where I grew up*2, the most popular haircut was called the ‘Butch.’ Short all the way around, and you’d maybe wax up the front of it. But of course being kids, we wouldn’t get to barber that often, and we wouldn’t keep it neat, it would just be kind of raggedy. . . . I wanted it to be do-it-yourself. I want it to not be something you’d go to the barber for.”
Richard fused the Beatles, the “Butch,” and two radical nineteenth century French bohemians into his new do-it-yourself hairstyle, and hell literally broke loose*3. In 1974, Television took to the stage at CBGB on Sunday nights. Hell wore clothes slashed as aggressively as his hair, held together with safety pins and emblazoned with slogans such as PLEASE KILL ME. (…) (pp.10-11)
これ以降、CBGBは紐育パンクの拠点となるのだが、2007年に亡くなったCBGBの創設者Hilly Kristalについては、http://d.hatena.ne.jp/sumita-m/20070831/1188527985を参照のこと。また、当時New York Dollsのマネージャーだったマルコム・マクラーレン*4CBGBでRichard Hellのステージを観て、刺戟を受け、このヘアスタイルを英国に輸入して、セックス・ピストルズを結成させることになる(p.11)。
ところで、Richard Meyers aka Richard Hellが少年時代に影響を受けたのは上に名前の挙がったアルチュール・ランボーなどとともに、ジャック・ケルアック*5アレン・ギンズバーグ*6といったビート世代の作家・詩人であった(p.10)。そういえば、ジャニス・ジョプリンもテクサス州ポート・アーサーにおける少女時代、”(…)like other disciples of Kerouac’s On The Road, headed way out West, to the beatnik enclave in the North Beach district of San Francisco.”( Mark Paytress “Pain in My Heart”*7 Mojo May 2010, p.57)。パンクにせよ、パンクに先行してパンクが激しく拒絶したヒッピーにせよ、20世紀後半の対抗文化は、その源流を辿れば、ビート世代に行き着くことになる。
路上 (河出文庫 505A)

路上 (河出文庫 505A)

さて、”When the hairstyle lost its meaning, Hell lost the hairstyle.”(p.11)*8